Use Feibings alcohol dye or other products as tints with multiple applications till you get the color you like. Let it dry between applications and rub down with a cloth.
Get a small container and put in wee bit of alcohol and drip the dye or tint color into to container one “drip” at a time and just “tint” the alcohol wash. You want to be able to see through the wash very clearly. It is not straight dye or a paint unless you are sure of a color. Wipe it on with a soft cloth fast and even, it will dry fast. No streaks. Let the first application dry. Not the correct color --adjust the next mix to go darker, more yellow, more brown, more red, more walnut, more yellow oak, more pine tar. Shades are endless --what ever you need to get to a match. Keep a bottle of each tint shade you make. Best to do this on similar wood or under the stock to see results. You can go darker, but lighter not so much. Start with lighter colors like yellows or light browns. You use the rag to wipe on a thin amount, you do not paint it on. I have used straight dye out of the bottle, but it is a fast wipe with a slightly moist rag of dye. Best wear gloves if you do not want to tint your hands. You can start with a stain and then improve on it with drops of dye. Avoid water based components. Let the coat dry, wipe it down with a clean rag, see what you have in outside light. Then go from there.
It is better to put 5-10 light coats on and get the color match correct, than one thick coat that turns to dark and cannot be reversed. Using tint washes rather than straight stain out of a can or bottle allows you to change/adjust the “tint” to more red or more yellow after 2 or 3 coats to get the color correct. If it has a yellow or light brown tone, start with a light tint first. It is difficult to add a yellow or orange over a dark tone. Start with the light tone so it shows through the hand rubber finish. Going darker is easy. MOST IMPORTANT. Remember to stay light because the BLO will darken & enhance the wood .
Cover the final Application with real BLO (again thin applications well dried between applications) and it will darken, so do not go too dark.
references of attempts:
Dyes and stains:
https://www.gunboards.com/threads/advic ... -pls.4111/
2 https://www.gunandgame.com/threads/what ... th.109805/
4 https://www.woodmagazine.com/woodworkin ... /wood-dyes
5 avoid water based data read for alcohol based dye only. Use Feibings leather dye not Trans tint NO, NO, NO) Read between the lines some interesting ideas, but I always avoid water based tints. This is aa general wood worker reference or for furniture. Still some useful ideas in the lower source I have quoted some.
https://www.joewoodworker.com/transtints.htmTransTints are incompatible* when added to the following products:
Oil based varnishes and polyurethanes
Watco Danish Oil, Minwax Wipe on Poly, Minwax Antique Oil, and similar wipe on oil finishes (excluding gels)
All oil based liquid stains (excluding oil based gel stains)
Tung oil and Linseed oil
2K (2-component) polyurethane finishes
The color of the wood when wet with dye is not necessarily the color when it’s finished. To get a good idea of whether or not the intensity and shade is correct, let the dye completely dry, and then( wipe it a clean rag). However, dyes shift in shade depending on the finish applied, so the only way to be truly accurate is to practice on some samples and finish them with several coats of the finish you'll be using. To make a dye stronger add more dye to the solution. To make a dye weaker, add more (alcohol).
I posted this on gun boards the original post:Applying Solvent Reduced (non-water) TransTints -- Alcohol reduced TransTint dyes are dissolved in either methanol, ethanol (denatured alcohol), or 99% Isopropanol. A 50/50 mix of denatured alcohol/lacquer thinner makes a very good NGR (non-grain-raising) stain.
When applying solvent or alcohol dyes by brush or rag, the choice of solvent is critical. Straight alcohol evaporates very quickly causing lap marks. On porous and figured woods, you may experience bleeding of still wet dye back up and around the pore, making a dark circle. When this happens we suggest that you add a retarder to the alcohol. This slows down the overall drying making the dye easier to apply and eliminates bleeding. Alcohol dye retarder (Behlen Solar Lux retarder is one example) is available from most suppliers. Lacquer retarder also works. Many companies sell a pre-mixed blend of alcohol and glycol ether (Behlen Solar-Lux) which will work fine.
Alcohol dye is best applied with a rag. You can use a brush, but this is only effective on small to mid-sized items. A brush is too hard to control on large surfaces like table-tops so you may find it better to apply the dye with a solvent dampened rag and work quickly to cover the surface. Rather than flooding the dye on, it's easier to control the dye distribution by using less dye. Dab the rag in a shallow pan filled with dye and start wiping it on with the grain of the wood. If you can work quickly enough and apply the dye evenly, you can apply the dye on in any direction, but until you get the hang of this technique, work with the grain. It's better to work with less dye -- using it almost "dry" and then build to the color intensity you want by applying more dye gradually. If you see a drip, try to fix it right away. Because the dye evaporates quickly, drip marks and other mistakes can be hard to blend in later on when the dye is dry.
You can lighten the color by applying dye solvent with a rag. You can darken the color by applying more dye but only up to a certain point.
Spraying alcohol dyes is fast and produces a uniform color. It is trickier to do because it's hard to get the dye into corners (the vortex created by the compressed air doesn't allow material to get into the corners). We recommend wet brushing the corners first and then immediately coming in with the gun. You can wipe the dye or leave it alone after spraying, but wiping will push the dye into the fibers better, resulting in more depth. Using a retarder is up to you. A practical alternative is to cut way back on the air pressure to reduce the spray vortex. We recommend the addition of 10% by volume of a 2 lb. cut dewaxed shellac or compatible lacquer when spraying the dye. This allows you to visualize the build of the color and also prevents bleeding when applying topcoats, particularly water base finishes.
Alcohol dyes are usually dry enough to finish after several hours. They may be pulled up by some finishes that contain alcohol or alcohol type solvents (like glycol ethers) so a light touch is recommended with thin coats if using these finishes (particularly shellac and water base finishes). The use of the binders described above (shellac or lacquer) is also helpful in this situation.
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